Wednesday 12 September 2012

May - Fitzroy Crossing, Geikie Gorge, Mary Pool, Kununurra


15/5
Got fuel and groceries this morning. Have decided Derby is a grubby place. Woolworths is fine inside but really needs a water blast on the outside. I don’t think there is a shortage of water here. The garage was the same and also the pavements down the main street andlots of grass around do not sure why it all looks so dusty on the buildings. Could be so pretty with the Boab trees down the centre. Very nice new Tourist centre though. Massive mud flats around the place – it is a low tide time (neap) until Thursday so no doubt they will be full after that.
Thought about Tunnel Creek today but it is 150km closer to go there from Fitzroy Crossing so will do that instead. Still looks like about 50km of dirt though – either way. May see if there is a tour as well.
16/5
Drove to Fitzroy Crossing – 10 – 2pm. Lots more traffic since I left Broome, but mostly caravans etc. – definitely the ‘season’. Checked the road sign to Tunnel Creek – 4x4 only and ‘high’ vehicles. Love the Baobab trees and fascinated by the different shapes of the termite mounds. What a pity there are very few places to get off the road now to take photos. Not even the 10km parking areas and the verge is sloped and often rutted from the rain. A few cattle behind fences, and a couple of dead wallabies?

 Heaps of grass, and there are controlled burn offs all along the road edge. Long straight rolling road, still feel like I  am climbing although only 400m above sea level here. Still very flat although went through the Erskine Range – mmmm - a couple of flat top hills!!!!
Staying at Tarunda Park for 2 nights – another grass and sealed park so that is lovely. Big trees everywhere. Am told Tunnel Creek road has been graded and lots of sharp stones, plus a couple of creeks to ford so will give it a miss I think. On the ‘bucket list’ now.
Had an guy knock on my door yesterday wanting to sell me a couple of carved Boab seeds for $50! I don’t think so but they were pretty good etchings. Should go and talk to him if he is here today – was sitting under a tree in the park when I arrived.

17/5
Lots of dogs barking last night! The park fills up very quickly in the evening then most gone by 7.30am so no sleeping in around here – or in any park I think!
Tourism centre, then got new bulb for left low beam headlight - $20. Spent 5 min driving all around town, and filled up with fuel. 300 kids at school -3yr to 18yrs – heard that on the radio. Seem to be following the Lions skin cancer scan van so said hello today – but they are fully booked. Saw it in Derby also.
Did the Geikie Gorge boat trip - $21 for an hour. Stunning cliffs and lots of little fresh water crocs.(see all these photos - White line is flood level.)
Got back to find a little caravan parked right up my butt!!!! Good think I am sleeping out the front!

Thoughts on the trip so far.
Still have all the rice, spaghetti, macaroni, milk and milk powder, dried mashed potato, flour, most of the tuna, half the fruit caked and half the choc biscuits.… Well – I won’t starve! Have bought meat now I know I can freeze it, fresh and bottled fruit, juice for my muesli  and more oats etc. to make it. Still have some port left in the cask and have had a couple of whiskeys. Should get a mirror sometime – but then do I care about putting makeup on any more? Don’t use much bread so have to cut back on what I buy. Didn’t need to buy the white dinner set! Plastic is fine.
The toilet is fine but only peed in it so far. Very heavy canister to empty though even when not much in it! Shower ok also – used it once but soaped and shampooed myself then got in and washed it off – after I worked out how to heat the water with power! Have to be parked right  so the water will drain out of it!!!!
Can't rely on mossie screens to keep them out. Beds good either end but do like the duvet doubled over as extra padding under the sponge pad. Back bed much easier to get out of but glad I have a choice. Have already been told a neighbour could hear me snoring!
Don’t need to put the side out every time I stop! Stupid thing to lock it also. Portable radio works best when near me!!! Need to stop drinking fizz – but it is refreshing. Coffee does not hide the taste of some waters!! (actually I found out later that the taste was because I was using a garden hose and that happens when it gets hot - which is why I need to use the proper blue hose even though it is a pain because it is so stiff!) At least I am now in areas where we can actually drink the water, but still filter it and fill bottles. Was getting sick of having to buy so much water.
Love my backing gizmo – should have bought the other one as a present for someone. Got new jandals, sun glasses and blue light hippy pants! Driving is fine and doesn’t seem tiring at all. Love being able to go to the loo and have a snack anytime I can get off the road. Haven’t won anything on lotto! Fuel costing around $80 per 250km now! Can't work out how to drive economically so might just have to give up trying!
Numban Cliff

18/5
Mary Pool Ford!
A couple of cold nights  - had 2 blankets on but still not into fleecy pyjamas! Haven’t felt hot for a couple of days also which is nice – no aircon on either! Shocking potholes around Fitzroy, especially on the edge of the seal and hard to avoid as the roads are quite narrow. BP station has shockers also – wouldn’t take the van into that station! Hit a couple yesterday after going through a ford and with the afternoon sun in my eyes – bang! Was not going fast either.

On the road for a month now – what an easy way to live. Will camp here at Mary Pool tonight - 108km from Halls Creek. Quite a few here too. Chatted to 2 couples at Ngumban Cliff lookout who had been at FC. They are from MacKay. The woman are Swiss. Their 5th trip around the country. Big bus and a trailer for the Jimmy, and the other couple in a campervan. They stopped at the pool for a while and I spent ages chatting to one wife down at the ford.
Roads better now and the 10km parking bays are back. Still waiting for something other than huge flat areas of cattle country. Have seen lots more healthy stock though. Large areas of burn-offs all around here. Could see unusual hills in the distance but can't get up anywhere to photograph them. Came across one area I would actually call pretty but couldn’t stop. Lots of grass and gum trees and a rocky hill behind them. Curious about the termite (still). If all the little ones end up like the big ones then the land is going to disappear in places – or is there something that stops them getting too close to each other and crowding others out maybe?

Several shy lizards down at the ford – hide in holes until they think you have gone. Little fish every where but not even a mouthfulL big white birds, a few cattle, cockatoos and crows, (and maybe the odd crocodile?). All very peaceful – not even a generator going!
19/9
Cold night again – must shut all windows!!!! Dark at 6 so not much fun free camping really! Emptied the loo also. Don’t use it much but… Was away by 7.30 – lovely driving as cool and very little wind. Makes such a difference. Lots of hummocks, high plains, flood plains etc. today. Far more interesting country and the road quite windy and narrow at times. More one way bridges and sharp drops into dry fords, and some water in the creeks. Even horses – mares and foals grazing the verge. Several ‘oversized movements’ on the road today also. Nearly out of fuel at Halls Creek – 360km from Fitzroy Crossing and below ¼. Met the Swiss again – they suggested I come on the helicopter flight with them but it turns out it can only take 3 not 4 and the price has gone up also. Was to be $150 each for 4 – is now $350 pp. Never mind – maybe fishing at Kununarra!
Didn’t stay long in Halls Creek – fuel and go.  Music festival and football on there today. Not sure about being at Turkey Creek either – will be well locked in tonight! Looks a bit the same at the roadhouse. Already had kids knocking on the door – ignored them. The actual town is a km down the road so hopefully they will all bugger off later. Might use my shower and get away early tomorrow. At least I got a park where I didn’t have to unhook – AND backed in ok.
Swiss lady bought a Boab seed carving in FC – then the old guy asked for a cup of tea and something to eat. Next morning he was back at 7.30 wanting a razor as he hadnt had a shave!!! Glad I didn’t have a chat after all!!! Who knows what he would have wanted from me!  I am told that the wind makes a huge difference to fuel consumption – I did wonder about that as there seems no other reason for it to be so different. Will be interesting when I fill tomorrow as today has been much quieter and the vehicle seems to be going faster easily.
20/5
Noisy night – dogs, then a couple of carloads of natives screaming at each other for 10min, THEN – trees full of birds at 3.30 am. Lots of chirping and ‘dripping’ for half hour then silence again. Cocatoos apparently eating the seeds – whew – thought they were pooping on me!
Thought I’d do the helicopter but then they take a minimum of 2 people so that was that. Tried to get a young guy working at the roadhouse to come but he wanted a free one. Did the accounts for an hour but no one else wanted to fly so drove to Kununurra. Stopped at Doon Doon for fuel - $2.03 – was only $2 at Turkey Creek – just my luck! Ute 4WD light came on and the wheel logo disappeared. Used 4WD to back at Turkey creek. Anyway – has gone the next day so a ‘short ‘ somewhere.
Interesting road again – even another 5km of winding road! Lots of hills and some pretty areas of trees, but was quite hazy – a fire somewhere I think. More water in the rivers now also. Drove over the dam head at Kununurra – lovely lake behind it. Boabs are back. Took a photo of one but realised when I drove passed that it was hollow on the other side and couldn’t stop to photo it.
Camped at the Kununarra how grounds near the Swiss. No pet or big rig but the caretaker let me in!
Went to the Sandlewood factory – kiwi lady there. Got some face ‘renew’ stuff, mango and boab pickle and incence sticks, plus had a cup of coffee. Lovely clean ‘real’ tourism shop! Didn’t think the aussies knew how to do it! Apparently the irrigated tree plantations here are sandalwood, which needs hosts so the other trees do that. Harvested after 15 years then 2 years in agriculture before replanting sandalwood. Different looking and a huge new one before Kununurra.  Chia, sorgum, melons, papaya also some sugar cane. Water is syphoned into the pipes to irrigate – farms have ‘watermen’ who get the pipes going.

Then down to the Hoochery – rum from sugar cane etc. Bought 40% proof that tastes like Drambui! $81. Neat old corrugated iron barn that has outdoor concerts etc.Had drinks with the Swiss. Lovely people. Sink blocked! Was a bit slow yeterday but thought it was ok – hot soapy water.
 
21/5
Really good sleep last night. QUIET! Stuffed the blue hose up the sink pipe then down from the sink and unblocked it. A large bug came out but hard to imagine it causing the block? Free washing machine here also.
Did the Hidden Valley – Mirima National Park. Actually managed to walk up to the lookout!!!! Then drove to Zebra Rock CafĂ© and Gallery. Absolutely stunning stuff made out of this beautiful rock. Greys, pinks and browns all striped or spotty. Bought a bag of off-cuts – Leah and I can polish them. Very clever stone work pieces there though. Had a lovely lunch. Huge mango trees here and love all the mown wide areas along the roads. The orchards are immaculate – such a pleasure after all the dusty down-trodden stuff I have been through. Still natives sitting on the pavements though! Generally a very pleasant town. Going on the boat trip with the swiss tomorrow so will be here 3 nights. What lovely people.
Got a small table so that I can re-arrange the bed – put it down the end if I want to sleep inside for a change.
22/5
Made bed on the table. Washed the van, rinsed the ute. Set up computer and have the office chair again!

11.30 – picked up and taken to boat for 55km trip up the Ord river. Excellent – Rob was full of information about the river, birds and wild life. Lots of Crocs etc. What an amazing scheme it all is and such foresight. The river hasn’t changed, the farmers are all happy and the eco-system is being well looked after. Got to the Lake Argyle dam face and another 30 people joined us from their bus trip to come back down. Lots more stuff to see and afternoon tea at a bush camp. Amazing sunset and home by 5.30 – very tired from all the wind. Saw the fire causing all the smoke – just a grass fire but has been burning for over a week and nothing being done to put it out – is upsetting the locals with all the smoke and haze. Has reached the river now so should die out anyway. Jabiru storks




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