Sunday 15 December 2013

Norseman and the Nullarbor


Stopped south of Kalgoorlie at Mt Thirsty for a night in a camp beside the railway line. Not too noisy thank goodness. We worked out they are at least 1.5 km long - ore trains. Chatted for ages to a couple from Perth. Lake Cowan is really long and actually has water in it. The road crosses over it a bit further south.
Then on to Norseman for a night. Did the lookout hill, put air in the van tyres etc then off to Fraser Station for a couple of days. Lovely undulating drive - the gum trees have fresh new growth and there is a pretty undergrowth of grey and green. Fraser Station was a sheep farm but wild dogs and rabbits have destroyed that so now they have a caravan park there. Only do farm tours if there are at least 4 people so I missed out!!!! Home cooked dinner at $25 so indulged both nights. Plenty of chat with the diners and staff so that was fun.  Very windy during the night, but a pleasant place to stay.
So many rabbits running around the caravan park in the evenings! They try to shoot 150 a night!  Several emus also.

Thought I had better check a van wheel before I left as it had grease stains on the rim - the grease hubcap had come off again!!!! Not happy with the job done at Neerabup!
Played the 'Sheeps Back' 3 par here. Bit tricky with artificial grass greens - very fast. Shocking seeds that go right through crocs - better put my sneakers on. Haven't done any of the others - always too hot by the time I get to them, but will do Eucla tomorrow as I am staying here the night. for those who don't know there is an 18 hole golf course across from Ceduna to Kalgoorlie. You can pay $70 and get the official score card - or just play odd holes. Each road house has one hole it seems.
drove the 5km of very dusty road in to Eucla golf course - didn't see the sign on the road saying how far. Got there and couldn't decide which was the right hole to play - and was hot by then so left.
On to Baxter free camp. Snuck in between some little trees but had to break a couple of branches off to get out again. Have now done the longest straight road in Aus. 90 Miles. Bit rough on the edges though and so many big trucks. At least they have plenty of room to pass along here.

 Had a fish burgher at Caiguna then camped again among trees. Woken with crows pecking the roof. Daylight at 4 am so will be pleased to change time zone soon.
At least 4 places where the flying doctor can land on the road so far.

 
Just before Madura you come off the escarpment and drop down on to the coastal plan - then follow it along until you go back up again at Eucla. Am finally in sight of the sea and white sand dunes. This park is right up on the edge with a great view - if the haze lifts. It has power but no water taps - and their washing machine doesn't work! Lot of renovation going on at the service station - looking very modern.

On to the actual Nullarbor itself. Definitely a treeless plain. Did a few side trips to the coast to see the bluffs, then in to Nullarbor roadhouse for VERY expensive fuel, and some lunch. My clock said 1.30 - theirs said 4pm. Such a big difference 2.5 hours. At least when I wake at daybreak - 4am western time - it will be a much more 'sensible' hour to get up - and the evenings will be so much longer.

Went on to Head of the Bight just in time to see the caretaker to lock the gate. He told me I was welcome to park there for the night and that many people do. Very windy for a while but  slept well inspite of being alone. He was coming back in the morning to grade the grit again to get rid of tyre tracks around the parking area - seems someone had done wheelies again which upsets him - or maybe they just turned around fast.

Went in to see the Bight in the morning. What a great road and facility there - Aboriginal Tourism has much to offer. Easy boardwalk down to overlook the ocean.  Beautiful clear sea - but no way of getting down to dip my toes in it!

Saw a dingo but have not seen any other wild life beside the road - nor any road kill since I came over the SA border. Is there something stopping animals from coming out on the road - or does someone come along daily and pick it all up. The difference between WA and SA is quite amazing. I feel sorry for the people who cycle across - that smell will be coming at them for miles.

The road changes back to the pretty tree lined one - almost a mirror image of the western end. I did check out a few camps  and finally stopped at Kidpinny about 80 km west of Penong. Hid down the back over looking farm land. It is so hot now I had to run the Genie for a while to get the fans going. Then had to sleep with the windows shut as I could hear mossies. Ugh. Once again the only one here but I am getting used to that.


Head of Bight camp at main gate
 
Now need to decide what to do over Xmas. Will spend a couple of nights here at Penong caravan park as there is a heat wave warning and I want to run the aircon!  Also need to eat the last of my fruit and veg before the check point at Ceduna.


 
 
 
 
 
 

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