Sunday, 17 May 2015

Outback QLD


From Blandford on up via Werris Creek to Barraba. Chatting to a local stockman who wrote a poem about the Apex Lions camp that he likes the nomads to read.

Lovely country again. Plenty of feed but not a lot of stock – lack of water maybe. Wide valleys with gentle hills. Called in to Gravesend rodeo ground – not attractive at all. Long grass etc so on to Moree showgrounds for a couple of nights. Lots of cotton fluff along the roads now – harvest finished maybe?

 Stopped for lunch at Mungindi and a lotto ticket – NSW border just over the bridge – bugger! Dined at the pub/café with a couple in their 80’s and who are heading to Mackay in the next couple of days. Always in Caravan Park’s though. Nindigully pub  - finally decided where to park at  then decided not to stay  as there is a ute muster and already there are drunk girls using the loos so could be a very messy night. Loud music, yapping dog. On to St George Caravan Park for the night! Has been useful rain between Moree and here. Lots of green feed, water lying beside the road. Road kill, emus in paddocks and SO flat everywhere – not a hill in sight! Very easy driving thoughJ Roads a bit rough on the edges in places.  Spent ages planning a trip via Thargomindah, Eromanga, Quilpie, Windorah, Longreach. Sealed all the way – about 900 km. 
111 km to Bollon. Road is surprisingly rough and narrow in places. Don’t remember that from last year. Down to 60km often. Lots of feed still. Had lunch beside the very full river. Thought I had a quiet camp but then a heap of utes etc turned up. Old country singers I suspect – a trailer with ‘Ulan cowboy – CD’s for sale’. Mmm – there goes a quiet night. I must be getting grumpy – don’t want to camp with dozens of others for some reason! Especially ones with damn yappy dogs! So off to Nebine truck stop – another 60km. Just a toilet here but a very big area. Car with small trailer parked down near the river so popped down to say hello and suggested that I park nearby. Strange woman told me she didn’t want anyone anywhere near her. WELL!!! Fine! So back up to near the truck parking area for the night. I think there could be problems here in rain – red dirt, and there are lots of washed out places, but heaps of room if fine. Very peaceful night inspite of being fairly close to the road. Several places along the road with water lying in ponds, but little feed anywhere now – just scrub & red dirt.





Decided to go to Charlotte Plains farmstay and camp at the bore. Took the 15km dirt road and realised there were a few wet places – people had driven around them and so did I until for some reason I drove straight into a long one!!!! Bogged! Tried the UHF but no response so got out. Good thing I had crocs on but they promptly got totally stuck so squelched bare foot to the dry and had a think! Decided to take the van off and see if I could get the ute out -  put a ramp under the jockey and was trying to get the thing to take the weight without moving in the mud when a bloke in a cattle truck turned up. A neighbour from 50 km away! Had chains and towed me out with ease – whew. All of 30 minutes of drama! Chucked the crocs in a bag and drove barefoot the rest of the way! Causeway to the house looked very narrow also – high pond beside it that had overflowed and scoured it out. Met Robyn Russell (and Mike the hand). 70,000 acres she runs. Charges $28.50 to camp at the bore – with just a long drop! REALLY! Or $30 if I wanted power at the woolshed. Had to go another 8km back towards the main road. She would come the next day and get the money and show me the shortcut -3km- to the main road.
3 dreadfully skinny cows with calves on the track. Should be put down and the calves hand reared. Not a good look for tourist I feel! A few sheep, and a camel, quite a few roos. Very narrow grids also out to the bore. Had to take VERY careful aim to get the caravan through. The bore water runs through open drains all over the farm. Had an inch of rain so a little growth but has been in drought for some time I gather.  Only Jack - a Yank – at the bore and he is fasting for a week and didn’t seem to want company. Had a soak in the bore canal – divine. Cleaned mud off crocs, car mat etc. Awning out for a while but wind came up. Bit noisy being close to the bore – sounded like rain all night but slept well.

Lovely soak before breakfast. Lots of tiny fish in the canal this morning. The long drop is too dangerous I decided. Termites have eaten the floor so didn’t risk it! Decided not to stay and then waited for Robyn until 11. Finally put money in envelop and gave to Jack. He offered to show me the shortcut out. Past the yards, through the gate and more bog!!! Decided not to risk it so all the way back to the house – said goodbye to Robyn and back out to the main road. At $15 p/n I would have stayed 3 nights – will email and tell her.




 Two nights at the Eulo camp then to Thargomindah. CP full so went to the old one - great little place. A night beside the river at Noccundra then on to Eromanga CP. Only one there!

More single lane sealed roads. Was going to Quilpie but decided after 2km that I couldn’t be bothered doing 40 km there and back on single lane sealed roads so turned around and on up towards Windorah. Stopped at Thylungra Station rest beside water. Then looked at the sky and figured it was going to rain so moved to a gravel area instead. 3 others stopped also. Rained for about 4 hours but no leaks it seems – yippee.!!!!

Lots of water around and a few patches on the road on floodways but nothing to worry about. Glad it didn’t rain any more or I may have been stuck as Windorah is in the Channel country – flood area! Big solar dishes there. Still single lane roads! Stopped for fuel but no internet so had lunch at a café and on to Jundah. Much better roads – all 2 lane but no white line. Was going to camp beside the Thompson River but couldn’t decide where  on to Stonehenge. Drop down off a plateau about 30km south of SH. Stayed a coupleof nights - had dinner at the pub with the school teacher I met a couple of years ago.


On to Longreach - back at the Stockmans' Hall of Fame for a week or so volunteering at the Gallery.







Wednesday, 22 April 2015

New Home & 3 year travel map



Big decision - after almost exactly 3 years on the road have traded the old Jayco for a 2011 Ranger with single beds, solar panels on roof, 2 batteries, wind up TV aerial & TV, plus a radio with remote control so I can flick it on in the morning without getting up, LED lights, ensuite, diesel heater, inside and outside 12v plugs, drop down table outside. Is 19' compared to the 18' Jayco but certainly doesn't feel any bigger, and is definitely a bit lighter - or is that because I had to get rid of so much stuff as I don't have as much storage now!!!!! Nice to have a van that sits higher off the ground also. Maybe wont scrape so much getting out of some petrol stations! 
A few teething problems. Had to reseal around a window that was leaking on to the bed. Hasn't rained since so still don't know if that sorted the problem.
Toilet leaking but hoping a new cassette seal has fixed that. 
TV aerial wouldn't wind down one day so had to wander the streets of Burrumbuttock until I found a lady with a ladder. At least I know what the cause is now!
Couldn't open the water tank to fill it - found a bloke who sorted it..... Ah the joys of a new home. Heading towards Scone now then up to MacKay.
Am enjoying a fridge that has the bars on the shelves so things don't fly out to meet me.  Getting used to seeing myself everywhere - didn't have mirrors in the old van! Don't have to squeeze into the bathroom now. Can sit at a table to eat - was sleeping on it in the Jayco so that I didn't have to keep dropping out the bed ends:)
I wasn't going to keep the blog going but since there have been lots of 'views' lately maybe I will..... and start a new map for the next 3 years I think!

Such a change being back on the mainland. Driving today north of Wodonga to Narrandera took me through flat farmland - not a 'hill' in sight compared to Tasmania. Lots of very young lambs around. The land looks pretty dry still although there must have been some rain recently as there is a lot of water sitting around in the paddocks and along the road gutters.

Nice to be warm again too. Has been surprisingly cold everywhere until today.
Camped at Carcoar dam under trees. Cool and then a nasty thunderstorm with hail. Thought I had escaped leaks but arrived at Greens Point, Sofala to find my bed and couch both very wet. Rain coming in a cupboard! Bloke offered to seal around solar panels but that didnt work I found out later.
Interesting finding two other guitarists at this camp. Ian (Kiwi) plays at folk festivals. Fun having people to play with. Woke to a heavy frost one morning.
On to Cassilis camp for a night. Big area and clean loos. Then to Blandford to stay with a friend. He took the solar panels off and has done a very thorough reseal job so lets hope that works!  Getting sorted for the Postie Bike Variety Dash from Newcastle in November. Also sorted a trip home for sister's 70th.
Called in to The King of the Ranges on Sunday for a few hours.

Saturday, 28 March 2015

Central Highlands, Low Head, Forth



 Had a lovely drive on a sunny day around the Great Lake in the central Highlands. Very good road except for the 20 km of gravel north of Miena.
I left the caravan at Quamby Corner CP - delightful place and only $16 p/n single for power & water. Very good new amenities.
The road winds up past the Quamby Bluff  walk entrance and some spectacular rocky mountains. There are several places where you can pull over and admire the view down to the plains towards Launceston.
When you come out of the bush to the alpine area you find Pine Lake with the very rare Pencil Pines. A very good boardwalk meanders through these trees to the head of the lake. Bitterly cold wind when I was there!
There is an Info board at a rest area when the Great Lake first comes in to view. The water level is down quite a bit at the moment.
All along the lake shore there are bachs tucked into the bush.
Stopped at Miena briefly. There is a free camp behind the hotel - a large carpark basically, with toilets and a playground. the cafe also has fuel.
Carried on across the bottom of the dam and then turned towards Poatina. Once again a very good road all the way. Stopped in to see Pumphouse Bay camp beside Lake Arthur  - looks good also, and only $2 p/n plus $2 for a shower. Onsite caretaker, and self registration. 
At the end of the lake the road winds down to Poatina. Many 15, 25 & 35 km corners. I think I would rather drag a van up than wear the brakes out going down. Spectacular views out across the central plains. For some reason the lookout has a gate across the road now so you can only go to a large turnaround area half way up.
Had a delicious lunch at Poatina cafe - even home-made butter!

On via Cressy and Bracknell back to Quamby across the flat fertile farmland. Sheep, cattle crops, massive wheeled irrigation lines.

Had a couple of extra days at Quamby - too wet and cold to be bothered moving. Then up to Beaconsfield for a night before crossing the Bateman bridge and stopping for a couple of nights at Low Head.
Love the apple orchards with their trees covered in fruit. All very regimented in places - but never can find a place to stop for a photo.

Back over the bridge and up a very winding steep road to Gindelwald. What a stunningly lovely 'Swiss' town. Immaculate. Stopped for coffee and chocolates before winding back down to Launceston and on to Evandale for a night.


Was heading to Gunns Cave but stopped at Railton instead. Wet and cold. On to forth to a beautiful recreation reserve beside the river. Dropped the van and did a round trip to Gunns, Penguin & Ulverstone. So pleased I didnt have the van - a winding narrow road with one very nasty sharp corner. Beautiful valley though, with dairy farms, pretty river and lots of bush.
The drive from Penguin takes you along the coast - very pretty, especially when the tide is in.

Only 2 more days in Tasmania. I think I will have to come back one day. Could very easily do it all again now I have the 'over-view'. A place where you can do very short trips and stay for a long time at each stop. Loved the east coast with its pure white sand, felt very at home in the west with the mountains, lakes and bush.
North west - green, farms, market gardens.... or maybe it is just so like NZ...... clean, green, fertile, 'proper' cattle, farms, fences, bumble bees, wasps, agapathus, fox gloves, pongas, clean flowing rivers, deep lakes, beautiful bush, deciduous trees ( = autumn colour!), great seafood and a gentle way of life it seems. Ahhhh...



Back to Melbourne and a big decision to trade in the Jayco for a newer Ranger - 2011 Panorama with twin beds. Just have to wait until it is ready to pick up then on the road again heading north.
May not do much on the blog any more as will be covering 'old' ground again, but will post interesting photos and check for comments at times.










Thursday, 19 March 2015

Tas North West

After considering routes decided to go north via the west again as I had missed The Wall at Derwent Bridge. Headed off from Sorell to Richmond then along what felt like back roads to Bothwell. Another interesting little village with tartan road signs. Has the oldest golf club in Sth hemisphere they say. From there over rolling farmland to Hamilton with the intention of having dinner at the tavern. The camp was full and the council in their 'wisdom' have stopped the tavern from letting people camp in their paddock over the road which was so disappointing! I was tempted to park on the roadside to see if I would be moved on but..... Had lunch then on to Wayatinah CP - a long day but at least I have power and water. This park is run by a couple of Kiwis. Stayed 2 peaceful days as it was rather wet.
On to Derwent Bridge to see  The Wall. What an amazing place. For some reason I thought it was out in the bush rather than in a huge barn. Stunning! For someone to be able to carve wood in such fine detail - and to polish some things to look like leather etc. WOW. Unfortunately no cameras allowed.




 On to Lake Bunbury. Managed to find the camp this time on the old road. Only 3 spots to camp so had one to myself. Sealed road in but some nasty patches of potholes! Woke the next day so see 4 blokes in a boat fishing down below me. 

 Checked out Queenstown - fuel and bread. Went 13 km north and turned right onto Anthony Road. Love these Tas hydro roads. Very well made to cope with all the trucks using it to supply the dam builds. Nowhere to camp with the van. Had hoped to find somewhere along Lake Plimsoll - only one gravel dump area at the boat ramp - so carried on to Tullah and my favourite spot on the wall at lake Macintosh for a couple of nights.

Lots of new roading north of Tullah to the Cradle Mountain turn off. The drive to Waratah took me through lots of gum and some pine forestry. Called in to Waratah  which is a very tidy small town with a camp beside a pond. There is a quarry - or mine digging in to the hillside.

Next stop was the Hellyer Gorge camp but didn't feel like parking in close damp bush. Had enough of rain! The gorge road is fine. A much more gentle decline than the Fitzroy River one. Very pretty bush - into mountain beech maybe?
Drove through Wynyard and out to Boat Harbour Beach camp. A steep narrow road down to the beach. The camp is a couple of wide strips of grass along a rocky cove. Had a very nice seafood chowder for lunch at the surf club cafe. Toilets here are 'electronic' - push button to lock, and they lock automatically from 11 pm to 7 am. Hope they never have a power
failure while someone in there.
Raining the next day so out of there early! Had the clutch slip trying to get up the wet road in 1st gear - scary! Drove 20 km to Rocky Cape Tavern and got power & water for $13 p/n. Went for a 'damp' day trip to Smithton and Stanley which is a lovely old town but very touristy now with cafes. Had a crayfish lunch at Hurseys - really nice. They sell fresh crays out of a holding tank for $105 live, or $125 cooked which makes the $78 ones at Triabunna look cheap! Was raining again by the time I had finished lunch so didnt do the chairlift to the top of The Nut.
Stayed a night at Riana - lovely camp with power & water for $12. Cold at night still. then back up to the Bass Highway and down towards Deloraine - stayed at Chudleigh showgrounds. Entertained by locals playing cricket before they all went off to a 30th somewhere. Did King solomon Cave - stunning. Excellent guide although he did rather take it as his classroom!

Great food at the general store in Chudleigh, and handmade fudge over the road. Also honey and a museum.

Thursday, 5 March 2015

Tas North East

Finally dragged myself away from Cosy Corner North. Off up over Weldborough Pass. Thought about camping behind the pub but kept going. Beautiful myrtle bush here with masses of pongas (tree ferns).

Good to see dairy farming with rotational grazing, and forest plantations that have been looked after. Certainly more logging trucks and mild tankers on the road now. 
Stopped at Branxholm CP for a couple of nights. Thunderstorm one night. Quiet catchup on power!
Called in to Legerwood to see the Remembrance tree carvings. What a great idea and so well done.

Stopped at Scottsdale - another goodcamp spot with water, no power. Lovely lake with picnic tables, walks etc. and very good amenities. Then decided to take the long way round to Launceston via Bridport and Georgetown. Really good roads around here. Wanted fish for lunch but the best looking place at Bridport was shut so on to George town where I had the best fish n chips ever from the fish factory. George Town has such a tidy highway - wide mown areas either side of the road. Looked so tempting as camping spots but they have a bit of a gutter to dissuade us I think.

On down to Launceston to 'Old Macs Farm' camp at Norwood. Once again I feel a village has become a city but no-one thought to widen roads. Keeps the old 'character' no doubt but not easy towing a caravan. The camp is down around a lake and about 30 lots there. $10 p/n. Went to RC caravans to get the awning arm clamps replaced. Only had black so did both and no charge for labour. Also called in to Beta Electric to see about the fridge - freezer box getting ice on the outside. Once again - told not to worry. Love these Tas people who dont do a job just for the money!
Evendale - what a lovely old town and so little traffic! Camped there at a hall which was being painted ready for the Glover Art awards this weekend. Lights put into the hedges as well so very bright outside the van one night when they were left on all night.
 Has breakfast at the bakery in the old Municipal Building/Art gallery.
Then decided to go up Ben Lomond. Nice 54km drive then up the mountain for 12 km. Almost gave up – seemed to take for ages winding up through very tall trees. Stopped at a small camp for a photo then on to Jacobs Ladder. Wow! Got up to the second hairpin and almost chickened out but decided turning around was not the easier option. Thank goodness no one was coming down as I would have had to make room for them and with NO barrier, and no passing places I guess it would mean backing down to a hairpin! Only one other car up there. Was pretty shaky but did manage to creep out on to the lookout platform and take a few photos before I got blown away! Man – is that high up. Hugely relieved when I got down again but the knot in my stomach didn’t go until back on the sealed road! Hard to believe that this is the access to the ski field!  Stunning mountain though and lots of glacial scree/rocks. Quite amazing. A light dusting of snow on it the next day so glad I went up when I did.

From Launceston down through the Midland Highway then east to Fingal. What a lovely drive and so nice to see that Tas has a bit of flat land!!!!! So pretty.

Fingal has a camp in town - 2 power points in a park so managed to get one. Chimney in the park for burning sawdust from the mill - before the anti pollution days.
Lovely old town of Ross - with the famous bridge, lovely old buildings and a beautiful church.
Then on to Oatland to camp behind the flour mill. Very popular place it seems.
Lovely wide valleys all down the Midland Highway. "Real' fences - post and battens! Very dry although the dams seem to have plenty of water.
Headed down Mudwall road and back to Sorell. Hundreds parked along the road there - long weekend and a big market. Fortunately the camp was not full. Met several who had been here last time and others that I met up the east coast.
Now have a new Cerac crown 'free' - well - my health fund paid for it as they needed patients to practice on. Very happy with it. Fascinating seeing the tooth being lathed - all in 5 minutes.